... Three night busses in ten days?

I haven't written in awhile since so much has been going on - lots of new people and places! I'll do my best to try and sum up Burma even though I'm in Pai, Thailand right now freezing my butt off in a little cafe. Didn't pack properly - it's SO cold here at night and in the shade but then strangely hot in the sun. 

Burma was so different than the rest of the trip so far but I really enjoyed it. After a few days in Yangon trying street food and wandering the city, we headed to Bagan and were blown away by the beauty of the landscape sprinkled with temples in varying shapes and sizes. Rachel, Shasta and I rented bikes to explore and climbed to the top of a few of the higher ones to get the full effect. We saw sunset from one of the highest temples after climbing some seriously steep steps but it was completely worth it. Apparently the king back in the 13th century had around 4,000 temples commissioned to be built - the result being a landscape of rolling green hills and temple after temple after temple. 

We were taking a quick nap under a tree when we met these Aussie guys Ben and Rory. Pretty much the first tourists around our age we'd seen in Burma. We all instantly hit it off and hung out the next few days in Bagan and then Inle Lake having family-style meals together (we're all big on sharing food) and taking a freezing cold boat trip around Inle Lake to see the local markets and of course... More temples. Really fun group to spend time with them and we had a lot of laughs over sangria and hot chocolate - especially about Rory's foot which he broke by accidentally rolling out of the top bunk of a bunk bed. Poor kid. 

Shasta and I did a pretty tough 6 hour trek in the rain around Inle Lake and struggled a bit to keep up with our tiny Burmese guide who was practically running up the steep hills in the mountains. I was feeling pretty beat after the first 3 hours but they fed us an awesome meal at a locals' house in the hills and we attempted to warm up with some tea and hit the trail again. I love being active outside but the cold, rain, and fast pace were pretty tough. The views were hazy but still beautiful and while my legs were pretty dead the next few days, it felt good to complete something so challenging. 

Our last stop on the Burma trail (after our third and final night bus) was Mandalay. Rachel, Shasta and I were pretty excited to come across the first European style restaurant we'd seen so we immediately sat down and ordered all kinds of burgers, pizza and fries... Fast forward 7 hours and somehow we're still there so we went ahead and got dinner too. Needless to say we weren't the best tourists in Mandalay and saw more of that one restaurant than the rest of the city but we did get up at sunrise the next morning to see monks cross this really long bridge but that was a bit of a fail too. Instead of monks, there were just a bunch of Burmese people in vinyl track suits doing weird warm up exercises like squats and jumping jacks. None of them actually worked out though... They seemed to just be preparing to work out. It was all pretty odd and after snapping some photos of the sunrise we zoomed backed to our hotel as the cab driver blasted his Bruno Mars CD and fist pumped. Gotta love it. I'll write more about Chiang Mai and Pai soon but for now... A few Burma photos!

Temples in Bagan

Trek around Inle Lake

 

Boat ride!

Our crew minus Rory!

... Nothing was more genuine than a smile?

Smiles on smiles on smiles. Burma is so incredible that my face hurts from too many friendly interactions (and I'm not complaining at all). I'm currently sipping the best $0.30 chai tea in a chaotic yet adorable Indian spot called New Delhi with Rachel and Shasta. We spent the day wandering Yangon and stopping to try every bizarre street food we could get our hands on. I don't think we were disappointed by a single thing - the fried quail egg was probably the favorite. The people here are incredibly nice and open, and extremely curious about these white people wandering around. We've seen about two other tourists the entire time we've been here and have been greeted countless times on the street by friendly Burmese people wanting to practice their English or help show us around. Even coming out of the crazy busy Bogyoke Aung San Market, a nice man named Haman offered to show us to this restaurant since it was on his way home. 

Our first day in Yangon (yesterday) was pretty packed but fun. We went to the zoo and got super close to some interesting animals as well as some not so interesting ones (lots of deer, rabbits and guinea pigs... Which I was obviously into). While we were snapping photos of all the animals, we quickly realized all the other people at the zoo were snapping pictures of us. I guess we were more exotic to them which was pretty amusing. We had a fantastic $2 lunch of Burmese food (think Indian and Chinese combined) which was spicy and delicious, then headed to the famous Shwadagon Temple which was by far the coolest temple I've ever seen. We went close to sunset and were completely overcome by the size, intricacy, and brilliance of how the light bounced off the gold buildings. We spent a few hours walking around and taking in the smell of incense and the massive beauty of the place. 

I had a pretty interesting chat with a monk who had a book of English phrases and wanted help with pronunciation so we stood and went through Christmas phrases (wreath, Santa Claus, sleigh), then American Football phrases (tight end, referee, goal post), then careers (hair dresser, waitress, doctor). He asked me what my career was but unfortunately none of the options were even close. It was pretty amusing though and we ended the night by lighting candles and all listening to the chanting prayers taking place in front of Buddha. It was peaceful, beautiful and moving.

We're hopping on a night bus tonight to head to Bagan - can't wait to see even more of this beautiful country and meet more Burmese people! If everyone is as kind as they have been in Yangon I think we'll be set for a pretty amazing trip. 

Our ride to the zoo

These elephants were dancing!

My monk friend

His book of English phrases

Shwedagon Temple

Yangon street food - so good

Making sugar cane

Such a neat city

Cool antiques 

Cutie!

... One week changed it all?

Travel is spontaneous by nature but it's crazy to think that a week ago, my plan was to work for a month in Koh Rong and visit Northern Thailand before heading home for the holidays. One week later, I have a flight booked to Burma with a new friend who feels like an old one, and plan on spending time in Burma, Northern Thailand and ending the trip in Australia... This means missing the holidays (sorry mom!) but there's just so much I want to see and do. 

Rachel, Julia and I had an amazing week in Koh Rong with some solid beach time and nights out at Frank's and Bunna's. While I loved being back, I realized a week was enough and started to feel the travel itch of wanting to move on and see some new places. Rachel and I started talking about Burma pretty early on in the week and since Julia had already been she was helpful with giving us some good recommendations. We have our flights booked but still have to work out the visa at the embassy in Bangkok. Hoping that goes smoothly (which of course it probably won't) but as long as we make our flight I'll deal with the curveballs! 

Sad to say bye to Julia today - she's such a sweet, fun girl and an easy laugher which is my favorite type of person. I feel so lucky to have met her and know we'll be staying friends. Excited to start a new adventure with Rachel and a girl she'd met earlier in her trip named Shasta. Still can't get over how easy it is to bond with people here... I swear a few days of traveling gets you as close as months of friendship in the real world. I kind of wish this was more of the norm and that people had less guards up and just let it all out in the open. Super refreshing.

Anyway, after two nights in Siem Reap (weird being back) Rachel and I are taking a bus to Bangkok and fly to Burma tomorrow! I've heard so many amazing things about the country since they just recently re-opened to tourism and are virtually untouched by tourists and backpackers. This means the lodging and food is going to be more expensive and travel may be a bit trickier, but I'm ready for the challenge and am excited to see a more authentic side of Southeast Asia off the beaten path. Should be a lot of temples, monks, beautiful scenery, and relaxation! Then again if there is a party scene I'm sure we'll find it... All for now.

Ill miss you Koh Rong!

See that man peeking down?? It's Bunna!

... Things fell into place?

So I'm on the ferry heading from Sihanoukville to Koh Rong chatting with this 50-some year old super hyper/bizarre woman (who happened to be named Evelyn) when I hear a girl go "are you American?" We immediately started chatting (thankfully saving me from more time with crazy Evelyn) and we just clicked. After a few minutes her friend looked at me and said "Is that underwear hanging on your back?" I reached around and pulled off a blue thong that had somehow gotten attached to the back of my dress. We all just lost it laughing and 20 minutes later were sharing personal stories and details of past relationships and traveling love affairs. Rachel from New York and Julia from DC - my new favorite girls who appreciate a good thong on the back. I still can't believe I walked around all day like that and no one told me...

Our ferry pulled up to Koh Rong and my local friend Boner and another American who I'd met last time I was there were waiting for me with a beer in hand - it immediately felt like home once again. Rachel, Julia and I grabbed a room together and headed straight to Monkey Island for some food and time on the beach. The island is just as amazing as I remember but it's crazy that in only a month a few new restaurants have popped up. I'm just so happy to be here when it's in this infancy state - no roads, no motorbikes or vehicles of any kind, no ATM, no stores... Just a beautiful beach with a few restaurants, bars, and bungalows. We had a fun night out followed by a hungover beach day and gnocchi at La Mami and re cooperated last night. This morning we hiked the 45 minute (slightly treacherous) trail to the even more deserted long beach on the other side of the island. We had a run-in with a water buffalo that was blocking the path but managed to tip toe past it safely. A day in the sun and some good local Khmer food tonight... What more could a girl ask for?

Rethinking the next month of travel to include Burma with Rachel and some solo travel around Chiang Mai and Pai but more on that later... 

Instant friends - love Koh Rong!

Dogs like to swim too

Water buffalo blocking our path...

Steep trek across the island

Longbeach!

Sunset from Longbeach 

... You went at it alone?

Anna and I had an amazing time these last 4 months or so - but as soon as I returned from the states, we started talking about the idea of ending the trip with some solo travel. She really enjoyed the experience of being on her own and I thought it sounded like an exciting (and yes scary) challenge. So here we are a few days into it and I'm feeling extremely independent and happy. We went our separate ways in Indonesia and I left with some friends we made on the boat and hung out with them for a night in Bali before hopping on a plane at 4am to go back to Cambodia.

Traveling alone so far has been exhilarating. It makes you hyper aware of your surroundings and you feel more present and open because you kind of have to be. I found myself chatting with so many strangers at the airport and making friends with some unlikely characters. After 15 hours of travel (2 plane rides and a "I stick out like a sore thumb as the only foreigner on this local bus" trip), I made it to Sihanoukville and checked into an amazingly cheap $1.50/night hostel. Yes I'm sleeping on a pad crammed in a closet with 15 other people but I can't complain, that's the cheapest night sleep I've found so far. I quickly met a girl named Lisa from Denmark and some Argentinian and German guys, and we headed to the beach for drinks and watched the sunset followed by a bunch of fireworks. Not sure what they were for but it was pretty cool to watch. 

Today I'm catching the ferry to Koh Rong and I hope I'm not over-hyping it for myself. I came back here specifically because I connected so much with this island so I'm hoping this experience is just as wonderful if not better. Not sure yet if I'll just hang out for a week or try to bartend for a few... Having a tough time deciding how I want to spend this last month and feeling a bit sad that its all gone by so quickly but happy that I have this opportunity. I just want to get the most I can out of it! All for now...

Fun little surfer group I met through Eva and Ena in Bali - they made my last night in Indonesia a blast! Hung out with them listening to music on the deck before I took a 1am cab to the airport. 

We were supposed to be making some kind of face...

Old photo from the boat trip in Indonesia - ended up being a beautiful last day after all the rain.

Can't wait to get back to this beach in Koh Rong!

... Roughing it was a good reminder?

After a week on Gili T, Anna and I booked a last minute four day boat trip after realizing we hadn't left much time left for any excursions. Gili was so wonderful - we got a bit caught up with our scuba diver friends at Manta Dive Shop and hitting the local bars on the island for live music, lots of dancing, and vodka joss shots - this horrible but wonderful idea someone came up with that involves pouring a packet of ginseng/sugar/energy powder into your mouth before taking a shot of vodka, then shaking your head violently to mix it before downing it. The result is a nice energy buzz that was probably the reason I stayed on the dance floor jumping around with a crew of tiny local Lombak men until 4 in the morning. A few people made fun of me as I'm sure the scene looked a bit weird - this giant white girl moshing to a live band cover of Nirvana's "Smells like teen spirit" with these tiny local guys half my size and height. It was fantastic and I had a blast. 

Another highlight of Gili T (besides the unbelievably white beaches, blue sea, and mountainous backdrop) was a boat trip Anna and I took with some new friends we'd made on the island. For some reason I decided it was a great idea to put down a deposit for this party yacht at 5am that left the next day at 1 pm. Cruising around the islands on top of this giant yacht with a DJ from New York playing and 30 some other young people from all over the world dancing and enjoying the view was so surreal. I keep having these moments (pretty much constantly) where I remind myself how lucky I am and while its important to live in the present, I never want to lose touch with the awareness of how special this time in my life is and how unique these experiences are. It feels like we're living our youth fully and truly having an adventure. And I'm grateful every day that I'm here to experience it all.

So after a fantastic time on Gili T, we boarded a tiny boat prepared for a fun four day trip around some of the smaller islands including Komodo. We were in for a tough wake up call when we realized this tiny, old, dirty boat was crammed with 20 people and we were in for some serious thunderstorms. I've never been on a boat that rocky and was honestly worried the thing was going to tip over considering how much water was coming on board and how violently we were rocking back and forth. Even getting up to move was nearly impossible and trying to use the tiny bathroom was even harder and resulted in getting slammed against every wall including the ceiling. We spent each night sleeping on moldy, wet mats on the deck while getting rained on... That combined with seasickness and the inability to shower for 4 days led to a pretty unhappy crew. I tried to just endure and not complain, but by the 2nd day I had already had it. Thankfully we were able to get off on land for a few adventures and I felt revived after getting to climb a waterfall, and doing some hiking and snorkeling. We were able to bond with the eclectic mix of people on board over the conditions of the whole experience and I felt connected and grateful for the good conversations with the exception of a really aggressive anti-American 6 foot 8 German who felt the need to bring up American gun laws and our military failures constantly... He kept saying "you can't take me seriously I'm German we're just direct!" But everything that came out of his mouth felt like a personal attack based on stereotypes. Thankfully we haven't experienced too much of that so Anna and I tried our best to laugh it off. Although one more day on that boat and who knows what would've happened.

Once we landed on our last island "Flores" we had the option to stay on the boat or land that night - not sure if anyone even debated it and we were all off looking for a place to stay immediately. Anna and I roomed with a German and Austrian girl and gathered our whole crew together that night to celebrate one of the girls' birthdays over dinner. I feel like we ended the trip on a high note and made the best out of it, but it was a good reminder to appreciate the little things - especially a nice shower, even if its cold.

Anna and I separated today - she's staying in Indonesia and I'm on my way back to Koh Rong Cambodia, the little island I fell in love with. My plans are a bit up in the air as I keep having change of hearts about what I want to do next. Being on my own is exhilarating and I'm trying not to plan too much and let things happen as they may. Anna and I realized we regretted basically every advanced booking or planning we did so we had very much taken on the attitude of letting things happen as they come. Travel is all about spontaneity right? So one month left on my own... Let the next adventure begin.

Gili T - one of the prettiest islands we've seen so far

Our boat at its cleanest - that deck crammed 20 people on it to eat, sleep & live. Never wanna go back.

The best part of the boat - enjoying the view after a break from storms

Waterfall climb - our first (much needed) break from the boat

Love a good sunset

Hike to see Komodo dragons (we saw about 13) - super muddy from all the rain but pretty

The Komodos were cool! Apparently they eat their young... And can smell if women are menstruating (our guide made sure to ask all of us if we were repeatedly. So awkward). 

Some trekking with our boat crew

A good little group overall!